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Ystradgynlais and District is a group of communities with some 8200 inhabitants situated in the picturesque Upper Tawe Valley in South Wales. Ystradgynlais itself is the largest community, with Abercraf, Cwmtwrch (Upper and Lower), Cwmgiedd, Glanrhyd, Gurnos and Penrhos in the district. It is some 15 miles from Swansea, 10 miles from Neath, and some 12 miles from the M4 Motorway. The town is on the extreme southern boundary of the County of Powys and on the edge of the beautiful Brecon Beacons National Park. | |
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Ystradgynlais is flanked by mountains - The Drum, Cribarth, Farteg and Mynydd Du - and bisected by the Tawe river on its way to the sea at Swansea. An excellent road connects the area to the M4 Motorway Junction 43, some 12 miles down the Valley .
Man has lived in this area since at least Mesolithic times (7000-5000 BC) and has left many traces. Standing Stones such as Maen Llia and Maen Madog, bones and other artefacts attest to human occupation. An ancient stone circle, Cerrig Duon, with its attendant standing stone, Maen Mawr, alongside the young Tawe River, are pointed to by a row or alignment of stones known as the Saith Maen or Seven Stones which lies atop the Cribarth.The early history of the area is explained in the fascinating Dan yr Ogof Caves,just past Abercraf at the head of the valley. The present Parish Church of Ystradgynlais, St. Cynog’s, rebuilt in 1865, is the latest of a succession of churches believed to extend back to the 6th Century. It is probable that the earliest church on the site was associated with, or founded by, Cynog, son of the Irish king Brychan who lent his name to Brycheiniog or Brecknock, one of the old kingdoms, and later counties incorporated into the present county of Powys. Fragments of early Christian memorial stones are incorporated into the fabric of the building, and ancient yew trees stand in the surrounding churchyard. The Cwmtwrch area is said to have been the scene of one of the most exciting episodes of the ancient Welsh Mabinogi stories, that of Culhwch and Olwen, as King Arthur and his men chased the Twrch Trwyth, a monstrous boar, along the valley. The Twrch carried the scissors and comb which were necessary to cut the hair of Ysbyddaden Pencawr, a fearsome giant who is said to be commemorated in the name of Ysbydadde farm near Abercraf. The Ystradgynlais area was comparatively sparsely settled during the Mediaeval and Early Modern period. Gruffydd Gwyr, Lord of Gower, is believed to have had a seat at Ynysgedwyn. He later took part in the rising against the English king Edward I - ‘Longshanks’ of ‘Braveheart' fame - in 1287. John Leland, the antiquary and traveller, visited the area in the late 1530’s, and mentioned ‘Ystradgenles, a lordship in Carmarthenshire. Genles a little river.’ Oliver Cromwell is said to have marched his men past Abercraf during the Civil War, and to have spent the night in Hen Neuadd farm. However the area really came to prominence during the Industrial Revolution. Iron had been smelted at the Ynysgedwyn site since at least 1612, but iron making really took off during the 19th Century. The population of Ystradgynlais stood at 993 in 1801. This more than doubled to 2078 in 1831, and reached 3758 in 1851, the period during which George Crane developed the Ynysgedwyn Iron works. | |
![]() | It was at Ynysgedwyn that David Thomas developed a way of using the local anthracite coal to smelt iron. This paved the way for further industrial development, while David Thomas eventually emigrated to Pennsylvania in the USA, where he became father of the Pennsylvanian anthracite iron industry. Many local people and families were to follow David Thomas to a new life in Pennsylvania and many other areas of the world in following years. |
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Coal mining developed apace during the second half of the 19th century, originally supplying local ironworks at Ynysgedwyn, Abercraf and Banwen. Later, coal was increasingly sold on to external markets, and the majority of local workers toiled underground. By 1901, 11,072 people lived in the Ystradgynlais area. Collieries abounded - Abercraf, the Diamond, Ystrad Fawr , to name but a few. Tinplate works succeeded the ironworks at Ynysgedwyn as the century progressed, one of a number in the area - the Gilwern, the Gurnos and nearby Ystalyfera. The last of these closed during the Second World War. The depression years of the 1920’s and 1930’s hit the Ystradgynlais area hard. The people sustained by stubborness, socialism and religious faith, struggled onwards. Noncomformist churches - Independent, Methodist, Baptist, and the Anglican Church, were well attended. Religious institutions often fostered cultural activity. Choral singing, operas, amateur dramatics, bands and Eisteddfodau flourished, culminating in the visit of the National Eisteddfod in 1954.
Light industry gradually replaced metal and coal, with the The excellent communications enjoyed by the Ystradgynlais area have proved a major selling point, as a number of companies have relocated into the area. Fortunately the area has worn industry lightly. Industrial remains have added interest to the local landscape, whilst the local hills are mostly unaffected. Industrial archaeologists are drawn to remains such as the Ynysgedwyn ironworks, whilst early railway enthusiasts find the various remains of the Brecon Forest Tramroad a fascinating example of a pioneering industrial railway system. Ironically, the old Wern Plemys colliery site is now home to a number of rare plant species and a Nature Reserve in the care of the Brecknock Wildlife Trust. Many aspects of local life have influenced artists. Josef Herman, the internationally famous Polish artist, lived and painted in Ystradgynlais after the Second World War. Many of his most famous works were painted here. His studio may be found behind Gough Buildings. Other local artists, such as Megan Jones, live and work in the area.
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